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2010 Tour - THE RHYTHM ROAD: American Music Abroad
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Robbie Mack - Photo by R J Whetstone
Robbie Mack


Robbie Mack's Fender - Photo R J Whetstone

 






Robbie Mack's Journal
Robbie Mack's Journal

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April 12, 2010 - Kuwait City, Kuwait

At 9:30 this morning we left the Intercontinental Hotel in Jeddah and were driven to the King Abdul Aziz International airport.  We were bound for Kuwait.  We had been in Saudi Arabia for 10 days, performed 7 gigs in 3 different cities and we felt good about moving on.    

Leaving Jeddah
Little Joe Quartet with equipment leaving Jeddah

Our pal Ali expedited us through a very crowded airport then we all said goodbye as the band passed through security.  With the memory of our missed flight in Riyadh fresh on our minds we wasted no time finding our gate and putting a vigilant ear to the public address system as it blasted flight departure information in Arabic.  We kept an eye on the gate as well taking, no chances.

The weather in Saudi Arabia in April is like the weather in Tulsa in August, hot and humid.   At the airport we passed through the gate and boarded a shuttle

Welcome to Kuwait
Little Joe, Ronald and Ronnie...Welcome to Kuwait City

bus that took us across the tarmac to the waiting plane.  I was dressed for the occasion wearing a tee shirt but I was drenched in sweat by the time I boarded the plane.  Once the plane took off the temperature inside the plane began to drop.  I closed the air jet over my head but the temperature continued to drop.  I swear you could see your breath inside that plane.  It was a two hour flight to Kuwait City and by the time we arrived I was nearly frozen. David, Ronnie and Joe suffered with me and stepping off that plane into the warm desert air was most welcome for a change.  In Saudi Arabia they say there are two seasons, running from the heat or running to the heat.

We were met at the Kuwait International Airport by a new diplomatic team, Public Affairs Officer Katharina Sweet and her staff.  We picked up our gear, loaded it into a van and headed for the hotel.   We checked into the Radisson Blu Resort Hotel built right on the gulf.  This place is luxuriously amazing.  We don't have to play until tomorrow so I will just bore you with some photos.

beach lobby pool
Radisson Blu Beach
Radisson Blu Lobby
Radisson Blu Pool
museum
Kuwait Marine Museum

April 11, 2010 - Jeddah, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

Today was our last full day in Saudi Arabia.  What a trip it's been so far. 
Ali picked us up at the hotel at 10:30 this morning with two vans.  One van was full of equipment and there was a van for the band.  Today we played at the Effat Women's University in Jeddah.   This is the second Women's University we've performed at.  We first played in Bahrain at the Royal University for Women which specialized in fashion design and marketing.  Effat University, named for the wife of the second Saudi Arabian King, King Faisal, is focused on engineering, business and humanities for women, a giant step forward for Saudi women.  The audience was made up entirely of women with the exception of our friend Ali who sat in the first row with a big grin on his face.  No photographs were allowed so you'll have to take my word for it.

The 600 seat auditorium was over half full with traditionally dressed women.  The crowd also included a number of kids from the campus day care center.  The girls took to our Blues by clapping and hollering, at times standing, waving their arms and swaying back and forth in unison.  They gave Little Joe three encores then came on stage for autographs.  Another successful day I would say.
 
Afterwards we joined the school Dean for lunch then headed back to the hotel to pack.  We leave for Kuwait in the morning.

April 10, 2010 - Jeddah, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

Today we had about the most fun we've had since we started this tour.  We were invited to perform at the Help Center School for challenged children.  Help CenterThe school is a privately funded facility accepting mentally handicapped children from birth to age 18.  The Help Center, celebrating its 25th year providing care and instruction for kids, was founded by the Al-Juffali family of Jeddah.  We were given a tour of the school by director Maha Al-Juffali.

We visited classrooms designed for each various age group and including an art department and a woodshop for some of the older boys.  The school offers occupational training for the older boys and focuses on self reliance.  During the tour we met many loving kids who were all very excite about the upcoming musical show.   Following a nice luncheon served in one of the conference rooms we took to the stage.

Boy, talk about excited!  These kids were ready to rock.  We played for about 50 minutes to screaming and dancing unlike anything we experienced yet.  The staff just about outnumbers the students and treats each child with such respect and love it nearly brought tears to my eyes.  Little Joe delivered a dose of Blues they will never forget.  Watch the video of Joe singing Chuck Berry's Promised Land and you will get a glimpse of what was shakin' at the Help Center School today.



Little Joe Quartet plays the Promised Land
Samar Fatany
Samar Fatany has broadcast on Radio Jeddahs English service for nearly 30 years.

We then returned to the hotel for a brief rest.

Our Jeddah connection, Mr. Ali Ghahban, had an exciting evening planned for us.  Ali picked us up at the hotel at 7:00 for a walk through Old Town Jeddah.  Some of the buildings are over 400 years old.  We took a tour of the marketplace where merchants were selling everything from Rolex knockoffs to flying carpets.  The place was amazing and crowded with beggars, thieves and God knows what.  Ali instructed us not to buy anything without consulting him first.  Everything was for sale and we spent all our riyals.
 
Following a delicious dinner of Sharma wraps, the best in town according to Ali, we proceeded to the home of Ali's friend Omar Alattas.  Omar is the leader of the Saudi band Abo Sarij.  After a very cordial introduction in Omar's office we adjourned to the music room where we found Omar's band waiting to jam.  The band has been together for 28 years and is able to function around the ban on live music by playing parties and events not open to the public.  Besides being the leader, Omar is the lead singer. The band uses oud, flute, violin, traditional drums and an instrument called the kanoon, a stringed instrument with 75 strings.  I hate to think what a set of those strings cost.  Other traditional Saudi instruments found their way into the jam session that included hand clappers and dancers.  Everybody was singing.   Omar often brings 25 players to the gig.


Little Joe Quartet jams with Abo Sarij

After a couple hours of exchanging musical/cultural ideas we loaded into the van and Ali took us back to the hotel.   Listen closely to the video clip and hear Omar lead the band and salute each member of the Little Joe Band.  What a

April 8, 2010 - Jeddah, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

It's Thursday in Jeddah and throughout the Muslim world Thursday night is much like Saturday night in the USA.  The week end activities begin to pick up on Wednesday night and continue to escalate through the weekend.  Traffic increases because the people are out to enjoy themselves. Thursday night is considered the Family Night of the weekend and families can be found picnicking at the beach or strolling together along the boulevards. According to Islamic Law, Friday is the Holy Day, so everything closes down, at least for a while.

The band had a laid back day today and got caught up on a lot of personal stuff like laundry, post cards and napping.  Little Joe and I decided to go for a walk in the late morning and explore the surrounding neighborhood. We only made it about one block.  It was so hot we decided to return to the air conditioned comfort of the hotel. Jeddah, being right on the Red Sea, has very high humidity which you think wouldn't bother a couple of guys from Tulsa - but it was really hot.  We returned to the hotel and had lunch inside.

We are constantly working on our conversion skills. This morning after my shower the scale in my bathroom said I weighed 70 KG or about 155 LB .  That's very good news.  The food here is so deliciously rich and the way I've been eating I was afraid I would weigh 300 lbs by the time I got home.  My wife Candy wouldn't like that.

When we are being driven around by the Saudi embassy drivers I sometimes notice the speedometer approaching 120. I have to remind myself that what I am seeing is kilometers per hour and once converted we are really traveling 75 MPH.  The traffic and aggressive driving techniques here will make you tighten your seat belt and make the hair stand up all over your body.  The high speeds, U-turns and total disregard for stop signs and most important, the honking of the horn about sum up the experience.

The money conversion is a constant state of concern for us. The Saudi Riyal converts 3.75 to $1US.  In Bahrain one Dinar was worth $2.65US. For example, in Jeddah a menu item listed 20sr will cost you $5.40 while in Bahrain 20dr will cost you $53.00. It gets a little confusing.

The air temperature, registered in Celsius, is most difficult for me to convert but who cares.  HOT is HOT.

This evening we met our Jeddah soul brother.  We have found one in each city as we've traveled.  Maybe it is one of our drivers or maybe the PAO at the embassy but tonight we found Donny Yoo from Alabama. Donny has been with the Foreign Service in Jeddah for nearly 9 months. We actually met Donny at our performance at the Hero's Hall the night before. Tonigh we got to know him better. We all hopped into a van and headed out for dinner at a restaurant on shores of the Red Sea. We sat at a seaside table eating the best seafood around and watched the breakers come crashing in. After dinner we passed around the hookah pipe. The hookah was loaded with a tasty apple/tobacco blend.  Hashish, like live music performance, is outlawed in Saudi Arabia.  Donny focused on our most basic concerns like the laundry issues earlier in the day. He offered to send a car tomorrow to take us to the embassy to use their laundry facilities.  We have been washing our socks out in the hotel sink.  A pair of blue jeans is a little tougher so a washing machine and dryer will be very handy. 


Watch Little Joe and Ronnie smokin' the hookah

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a Saudi Super Market. Just like a Wal Mart Super Center they had everything.  Saudi families were crowded in doing their grocery shopping.  It was amazing. Little Joe needed to pick up a swimming suit and the rest of us tagged along.  Joe found his swimming trunks and bought himself a new suit.  The kid knows how to dress.

April 9, 2010 - Jeddah, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

We had another day off today.  Although we were mostly caught up on our laundry an invitation came from the Marines at the US Embassy to make use of their washing machine and dryer.  Up until now I had been doing most of stuff in the hotel sink.  We managed to throw a load together among us and called to have an embassy driver pick us up at the hotel.  Besides the laundry the Marines have the canteen and cold beer.
 
On the way to the embassy we stopped and had lunch.   In the Muslim world the Call to Prayer happens five times a day.  Many folks throw out their prayer rug, turn to face Mecca which is only an hour's drive from here, kneel down and start praying. To pray is not mandatory so many continue with what they are doing but all the shops close. If prayer happens while you are in a shop or restaurant you can stay there in some cases but there will be no one to wait on you or in a restaurant there will be no one to bring the check.  We had to gobble down our food before they locked the doors. I have heard the call early in the morning before dawn and late in the evening after dark.  Prayer also happens just after noon at 12:30 but the traffic noise drowns out the call during the day.
 
The Marines remembered us from our concert at the Hero's Hall across the street two nights before and were very welcoming.  There are only five Marine troops assigned to the embassy. The rest of the security is handled by contracted Nepalese soldiers.  In December 2005 a group of Saudi terrorists affiliated with al-Qaeda stormed this US Embassy and killed 5 contracted guards.  They are buried on the Embassy grounds and considered heroes, thus the name Hero's Hall.

Jeddah Embassy Seal Tombstone
Jeddah Embassy Seal
Hero's Tombstone


Little Joe, Ronnie Mac and David in The Heros Garden
Joe and Mr President

Little Joe and another blues fan

In this Saudi Arabian heat a couple of cold Budweiser beers sure hit the spot.  We folded up our laundry, returned to the hotel and got a good night sleep.

 

 

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